Elephant Ride in the Pink City

After Mari and I made quick work of the Taj, we loaded into the car and took a 4 hour drive to Jaipur. I had heard so much about Jaipur from the people I work with. I was told there were bazzars (small shops) everywhere. I was told you could buy bengals, fabric, jewelry, and a host of other things. While we did find some places to shop, much of our time was taken up by the tour we went on.

We arrived into Jaipur around 6pm and got checked in an settled before heading to a different hotel to meet Daniela for dinner. The following morning we woke up around 7:30 and headed down to have a little breakfast before our tour. There was a great buffet set up and the food looked great. The only reason I am mentioning the breakfast is because of one item they had out. Pancakes. Mari went crazy! They were mini pancakes and Mari was so happy. As it turns out, they don't do pancakes in Tokyo... whoda thunk it?

Daniela and the car picked us up around 8:30 and we were off on the tour. Our first stop was a huge fort called, the Amber Fort that was on top of a hill.
*Pro Tip, the B in Amber is silent

To get up to the fort, you could either take a car, walk, or take an elephant ride... I will let you guess which one Mari and I chose. For a mere 900RS (<$18) you could get a two person ride on an elephant. We boarded our elephant and slowly (and uncomfortably I might add) made our way to the top. The entire way we were bothered by hawkers and others trying to sell us worthless trinkets, but since we were a solid 10-12 feet above them it mattered little.

The view from the top (as usual) was beautiful. After taking some pictures and listening to our tour guide we made our way inside. The fort is a maze of court yards, small rooms, and even smaller passage ways. If we were not with someone who knew where to go, I can guarantee we would still be wandering around this massive fort.

All of the color on the wall in the picture is from paint that is made by crushing semi precious gems and stones and mixing them with a milky like paste. Those walls have not been repainted in over 400 years.

Once inside the fort, we wandered around and saw many different rooms before we stumbled into the "third courtyard". This area of the fort is also known as the Mirror Palace. The walls and ceilings are covered in mirrors. The mirror were small and convex shaped. When dark, and a candle held in the right spot, the whole area would light up. Really ingenious if you ask me. Across the courtyard from the mirror palace was a primitive form of air conditioning. There would be a huge wall of moss hanging over and blocking air flow into the garden area. Water was the pumped (naturally I might add) into the moss. So when the breezes came and hit the wall of moss, it would cool the air before it came into the garden area. This place would have been incredible to see in working order.

As I said before, the Amber Fort had LOTS of rooms. The Maharaja that designed the fort made the "fourth courtyard" for his wives, concubines, and mistresses. The Maharaja's room had a passageway that led to a common corridor that then branched into each of the 12+ rooms individually. The king was able to visit any one of his ladies without the others know which one it was. I can not begin to fathom how difficult it would be to keep track of it. "Damn it, I'm in Jessica's room, I meant to go to Carla's room... I guess Carla will have to wait till tomorrow".

On our way out of the fort we came across something I had been looking forward to seeing... a snake charmer! It was really cool. The guy had a couple little baskets, and once someone put their money down he took off the cover and began playing. And what do you know... there was a cobra! Our tour guide told us that if we paid 20RS (<$0.40) we could go and touch the cobra while the charmer played. None of us had the courage... even after we were told the cobra had its fangs removed. Maybe next time...

Next up, the Jal Mahal, which means the Water Palace. They are currently doing renovations on it so we were unable to actually go to the palace, but it was really pretty to see from shore. We also had a pretty decent view of it from our hotel room.

We then stopped at this fabric store that was really cool. They did something called block printing. Which consists of dipping a wood block, with a negative carving in it, into ink and pounding it onto fabric. After the demo we went into the store and did a little shopping. Mari got a custom dress made from silk with block printing on it, and I went to the custom tailored blazer and shirts. Overall a really good stop.

Next stop was the City Palace. No cameras were allowed inside of the palace, so I only have one picture of this one. There is a whole bunch of history and plenty of stories about this palace... I honestly can only remember two. The first is about a mysophobe of a king. He was so worried about his drinking water when he traveled that he made a huge urn out of silver that he took with him when he traveled. To each his own I guess. The other is about a huge king. This king four feet wide, over seven feet tall and weighed over 550 pounds. Oh, and he had 108 wives...

Our last stop in Jaipur was the Jantar Mantar. This is a collection of architectural astronomical instruments built by a king... who apparently always needed to know what time, season, and astrological sign it was at any given second. He built 14 different instruments including a sun dial (pictured below), star tracking and elipse predicting devices, and a device for individual constellations. So when your child is born, you are supposed to check this place to find their astrological sign.

Apparently the "small" sundial was not accurate enough for this king, so he had a larger one built. This one stand 90 feet tall and is the largest sundial in the world. It could actually be smaller in size, the reasoning being "The scale to which they have been built has been alleged to increase their accuracy. However, the penumbra of the sun can be as wide as 30 mm, making the 1mm increments of the Samrat Yantra sundial devoid of any practical significance."

With just a car ride back to Delhi (worst in my life), our trip was coming to an end. Once back in Delhi, I took Mari on tours I had already done and what I thought she would enjoy (Old Delhi, Lotus Temple, etc, etc). This brought us to Friday... the day Mari left. A sad day indeed, but her visit was so much fun and provided a much needed break from the monotony of the internship. 

Next up, a post on a "rain party" and a weekend trip to Chandigarh with Dinesh! Should post that tomorrow. 

Mari and I Take the Taj

AAAHHHH!!! Mari came to visit me! That is right, she took a week out of her busy REAL world life and flew to India.

After some confusion (my fault of course) I successfully picked her up from the airport and we made our way back to my flat. After a shower, a snack and a quick pep talk from me about kicking jet lag in the teeth, Mari and I went out that night to a YPO/WPO event. It was their year end event where they give out awards and have a party. It was a lot of fun, they had some famous Bollywood guy come in and sing. This of course caused all the girls to rush to the stage and fawn over him as he serenaded them. They had cuisines from four or five different nations (Mari sprinted for the Indian while I wavered around Italian and Chinese) that was absolutely superb. And to top it off, they had a top shelf open bar.

The following day, we set off to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. It was a fairly simple three hour drive that was handled by a hired driver. Upon arriving we were talked into taking a tour of the Taj that day because apparently there was some holiday the next day and it would be impossible to see it. The tour was good, it was hotter than Hades... like I should have thrown my shirt away hot. But it was nice to see it up close and hear about the history and all that nonsense. And of course we got plenty of pictures.

The next morning we were set to take another tour of the Taj. This time a sunrise tour. Everyone I spoke to told me that it was a must, so I got that set up through the hotel and we were off. It really was worth it. If you ever get a chance to visit the Taj, please take the tour at sunrise. Even though we had to get up at 4:30am, it is so pretty and brings a whole new view to the building... also it is much cooler.

The Princess Diana bench

After the Taj we took a tour of the Agra Fort. It was built by the same guy who built the Taj, which is where he was later imprisoned by his son. Two thirds of the fort is still being used by the military and therefore off limits to civilians, but the 1/3 we were able to see was pretty cool.

The view from the old kings room. At least his son was nice enough to let him view the Taj from his prison room.

So we were told that this was known as the pleasure garden. Apparently there were naked women wandering around here and the wine was endless

This was my favorite part. This is a double mote. The first mote was filled with water and had crocs and other terrifying water animals. The second mote was filled with wild animals like lions, panthers, and other ferocious beasts. I want to have a double mote one day. I think that is the definition of success.

We finished our trip to Agra and prepared to make our way to Jaipur. That post will follow in the coming days. We had a blast in Agra and I highly recommend going if you ever have the opportunity. Also, look at this UNREAL view we had from our hotel room.

And here is Mari looking like a model in the hotel pool. Seriously, look how beautiful she is.

A Drink With a Billion Souls

As I promised in my post about the drinking culture in Ireland, here is a post about the drinking culture in India.

I was shocked to find out that there actually was a drinking culture here. I was expecting most people to not drink at all, seeing as that is the stereotype that I have come to know about Indians. Like most, this stereotype does have some grounding, but it does not encompass the true culture. Drinking culture is divided into the north and the south of India. In the north, they drink, in the south, they don't. Simple as that. Thankfully I am living in the north, so I am able to imbibe on occasion. I have gone to some bars and many restaurants and I have had my fair share of booze while here.

There are some stark differences I noticed while enjoying my ice-cold beer (which came as a true godsend in this awful heat). I will start with something that shocked me, the drinking age here is 25. Yes, you read that right; the US does not have the highest drinking age. The enforcement of this law leaves something to be desired though. I have never once been asked for my ID or asked how old I was for that matter. As a matter of fact, I didn't find out about the drinking age till about two weeks ago.

I have been invited to some "parties" while here. While I have always had a good time, the parties are always 100% male. There was once that a guy's girlfriend joined us, but she did not drink at all. It is highly unusual for me. At these parties, they call drinks "pegs" and they rarely use mixers when they are having liquor. They will use water or soda water or ice (if any survived) to dilute the alcohol. They were blown away when I made a mixed drink like we have back home. When they do get drunk, they do not call it "being drunk", they call it "being high". So you can imagine my confusion when I first heard someone say they were "so high". My first reaction was "Where did you get it?"

In an effort to decrease the amount of reading you would have to do, I am going to just list a couple other things I have noticed while drinking here.

The drink of choice here is beer or whisk(e)y, which I have little problem with. 

When not at a restaurant, they drink to get drunk. I saw someone down three drinks in the time it took me to enjoy one. 

The hangovers are hell here no matter what kind of booze you drink. I think it is because of how dehydrated you are all the time. All I know is that some of my worst hangovers have taken place here in India.

Liquor stores (wine shops) close at midnight. But if you are in Gurgaon or Delhi (where I am) and it is after midnight and you are still thirsty, all you have to do is knock on the window and tell them what you want and they will get it for you for an extra charge of 40-80rs ($0.80-$1.60) depending on the booze. 

Their beer comes in 12 oz bottles or 23oz bottles. Weird, I know. Also you buy them individually. No 6 or 12 packs... just single bottles. 

I do believe that is all that has surprised me. I figured I would post something before I have a revolt on my hands over lack of posts. I should have my pictures from Agra (Taj Mahal) and Jaipur in the coming day or two, and I will be sure to get a post or two up about that journey.